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Radiant Barrier > Installation > Attic
Installing Radiant Barrier in the Attic
Stapled to roof chords: 
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This method is generally considered the best method in cooling dominated areas as it keeps the entire attic space cooler, and blocks radiant heat from hitting ductwork and air handlers located in the attic. In addition, attic air leaked into the return side of the ductwork is at a lower temperature, creating less stress on the cooling equipment and increasing its efficiency. In this location, the foil is generally not affected by dust.
Select your attic type below
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- 1. You should use a perforated material (ARMA FOIL™) for this application.
- 2. In an open framed attic, it is generally easiest to install the strips of material across the attic (perpendicular to the direction of the roof joists), overlapping each run by about 2 inches. Unroll the Radiant Barrier, hold in place and staple to bottom of roof joists. Staples should be placed 14 to 18 inches apart.
- 3. Cut around vertical bracing as necessary. Foil Tape can be used to patch up any slits you make in the foil to fit around these objects.
- 4. Cut a minimum of 2 inch clearance around any exhaust or flue pipes.
- 5. Cut openings in the foil below existing roof vents to allow attic air to vent.
- 6. It is recommended to cover gable end walls as well.
- 7. There is no need to tape all the seams in this type of installation.
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- 1. You should use a perforated material (ARMA FOIL™) for this application.
- 2. In a truss framed attic, it is generally easiest to install the strips of material in line with the trusses. ARMA FOIL™ is available in several different widths to fit your truss spacing (26" for 24" o.c. and 18" for 16" o.c.). Unroll the Radiant Barrier, hold in place and staple to bottom of roof joists. Staples should be placed 14 to 18 inches apart.
- 3. Cut around vertical bracing as necessary. Foil Tape can be used to patch up any slits you make in the foil to fit around these objects.
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- 4. Cut a minimum of 2 inch clearance around any exhaust or flue pipes.
- 5. Cut openings in the foil below existing roof vents to allow attic air to vent.
- 6. It is recommended to cover gable end walls as well.
- 7. There is no need to tape all the seams in this type of installation.
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Under the roof decking:
This method is used primarily in new construction or when replacing roof decking. It works similarly to "Stapling to roof cords", however, is easier to install.
- Perforated material is preferable for this job
- Unroll the Radiant Barrier over the top of the roof trusses or joists
- Allow the material to sag down about 2 inches between each joist
- Periodically staple to hold it in place
- Overlap each run by about 2 inches
- Cut 2" clearance around any exhaust or flue pipes
- Cut openings below roof vents to allow attic air to vent
- It is recommended to cover gable end walls as well
- There is no need to tape the seams in this installation
- Nail roof decking on top as usual
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Reflective Sheathing:
Several companies offer sheathing products with aluminum foil laminated to it. You can make your own reflective sheathing for a fraction of the cost. Just staple our 48" wide foil products to regular OSB or Plywood steathing.
- Use industrial grade perforated material for this job
- Unroll the 48" wide Radiant Barrier over the sheathing and staple or glue it in place.
- Cut the foil off at the end of the sheathing.
- You have just made reflective sheathing or roof decking at a savings.
- When you install it on your roof, face the aluminum side down toward the attic space.
- Cut 2" clearance around any exhaust or flue pipes
- Cut openings below roof vents to allow attic air to vent
- It is recommended to cover gable end walls as well
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Proceed to Material Specifications
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local: 972.283.0163 
