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Frequently Asked Questions

Questions: (Click a question to jump directly to the answer)


  1. What is the "R" value of Radiant Barrier?
  2. Which do I need, Perforated or Solid (Non-Perforated)?
  3. Is the Perforated type as effective as Solid (Non-Perforated)?
  4. How much tape do I need?
  5. Is double sided Radiant Barrier better than single sided?
  6. How much savings is expected with attic installed Radiant Barrier?
  7. Will my roof get hotter?
  8. How does Radiant Barrier Foil compare to the paint?
  9. What about claims of dust accumulation reducing the effectiveness?
  10. Can I use Radiant Barrier instead of regular insulation?
  11. Which direction should the foil face?

FAQ

Answers:


What is the "R" value of Radiant Barrier?

  • An R-Value is a measurement of resistance to the flow of conductive heat transfer.  Since Radiant Barriers are designed to reflect radiant and not conductive heat, they do not have an actual R-Value.  Any "theoretical" or "equivalent" R-Value depends heavily on the method of installation and the size and number of airspaces surrounding the material.  We do not attempt to assign any R-Value to Radiant Barrier as it is not relevant and somewhat misleading.  It is the RB's ability to reflect radiant heat that makes it such an energy saver.


Which do I need, Perforated or Non-Perforated?

  • It depends on your application.  Here is the general rule of thumb.  If you are installing the Radiant Barrier on the outside/exterior of mass insulation, use the Perforated type so as not to trap moisture in the insulation.  If you install it on the inside/interior of mass insulation, use the Solid type and tape the seams to create a vapor barrier.  We recommend using only perforarted radiant barrier in all attic installations.


Is the Perforated type as effective as Non-Perforated?

  • Yes, the holes are very small and do not degrade the performance of the RB.  They are there just to allow moisture to pass through and have virtually no effect on the thermal performance.


How much tape do I need?

  • When using Radiant Barrier as a Vapor Barrier or housewrap, it is important to seal all the seams.  You will need approximately 1 roll of tape (2" x 150') for every 1000sf of Radiant Barrier.


Is double sided Radiant Barrier any better than the single sided type?

  • Yes, most definately!  There are two properties which allow radiant barriers to work, reflectivity and low emissivity (low-e).  Heat is reflected on the top/hot side, and since RB has a low-e value, heat is not emitted to the bottom/cold side.  Of these two properties the low-e value is of greater importance.  In order for a radiant barrier to be most effective in both summer and winter it needs to have aluminum on both sides.  According to a study performed at Texas A&M University, double sided radiant barriers were 41% more effective than their single sided counterparts.


How much savings can I expect from an attic installed Radiant Barrier?

  • Your actual savings will vary with many factors including: attic installed location, house shading, duct leakage, air handler location, geographic location, etc.  In the South, you can expect to see a 40% reduction in heat gained through the ceiling.  This can translate to a 17% savings on cooling bills.  In some installations, there will also be additional savings on heat which will no longer be lost through the ceiling in the winter.


Will my roof get hotter?

  • The Radiant Barrier will only increase the roof surface temperature by 2 to 5 degrees.  To put it in perspective, the surface temperature of dark asphalt shingles can reach 190°F on a hot sunny day.  Most roofing manufactures recognize that adding radiant barrier to your attic will not harm your shingles.


How does Radiant Barrier Foil compare to the paint products?

  • The most important specification to look at when comparing different types radiant barrier is the emissivity value.  The best radiant barrier paints have an emissivity value of around 0.25, while our radiant barrier foils have an emissivity of 0.03.  The lower this value, the better it works at blocking and reflecting heat.  In other words, the best paint products can only stop about 75% of the radiant heat, while our foil products can block up to 97% of the radiant heat.  In fact, to even be considered as a true "Radiant Barrier", a material must have an emissivity of .1 or less.  The paint products fall sort of this mark.


What about claims of dust accumulation reducing the effectiveness of the Radiant Barrier?

  • It is true that over time dust may accumulate on the top surface of the Radiant Barrier when installed on the attic floor.  However, the main reason that a radiant barrier works is that Aluminum has a low emissivity value of 0.03 - 0.05.  This means that it only emits 3-5% of the heat by radiation to the cold side.  Dust accumulation on the top surface of a double sided material has no effect on the emissivity of the lower side.  In addition, most of the dust tests available were performed on a single sided material with the aluminum side facing up.


Can I use Radiant Barrier instead of regular insulation?

  • There are some venders which suggest to use radiant barrier instead of regular insulation, but we always recommend using it in conjunction with regular insulation.  The reason is that they work to perform different functions.  Regular insulation primarily slows down conductive heat transfer, but does not prevent radiant heat from penetrating.  Radiant Barrier blocks radiant heat, but not conductive heat transfer.  A good system utilizes both radiant barrier and mass insulation to reduce both types of heat gain or loss.


Which direction should the foil face?

  • Since all of our radiant barrier materials are double sided, it doesn't matter which direction you install it.  However, if you were to install a single sided product, the side with aluminum (the shiny side) needs to face the airspace on the cold side.





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